Prong Setting
For Brilliant Cuts
What you're going to need...
Please make sure to watch the classes in full and read the handouts before going out and purchasing any new tools listed here
We always like to show that there is more than one way to do everything and so have included ALL THE TOOLS we demonstrated in the class.
YOU DO NOT NEED EVERYTHING LISTED HERE.
So please, please, watch the videos first. Remember, it’s not the size of the tool collection, it’s what you do with them that counts.
16 gauge (1.3mm) round profile wire in brass, bronze or sterling silver – dead soft
I recommend at least several practice settings in a base metal before moving onto sterling silver.
15cm should be more than enough for each 6-prong setting. However, it’s always a good idea to have extra on hand, just in case things don’t go quite to plan.
18 gauge (1mm thick) sheet in brass, bronze or sterling silver – dead soft
I recommend at least several practice settings in a base metal before moving onto sterling silver.
For setting a 10mm stone, I used a piece measuring approximately 6mm x 30mm – but watch the videos before buying for an explanation.
Hard and medium silver solder
I prefer to use wire solder that is rolled as thin as possible, but you can use whichever you prefer of course. You can also potentially solder everything in this class with hard solder. In case you were wondering, it’s red because I colour coded it with permanent marker.
10mm round brilliant cut gemstones
I highly recommend getting brilliant cut cubic zirconias to start practicing with as most other coloured stones will generally have more cut variations. Believe me, you want to start with the easiest option here. You can use other sizes too of course, but for a first try, I’d stick with something above 6mm in size.
As an advanced class, I’m going to assume you have the basics. But I have included links below to some items used that you may not have at hand. Most things mentioned should be available from any major supplier, however I have only found the joint round edge files available at Otto Frei.
Do check out our Suppliers and Discounts page for discount codes for a variety of tool companies around the world before ordering. And please remember as always, to watch the class before ordering anything.
Cross cut cylinder bur
I used a 1.32mm bur in the video (however for Busch – it’s sold as 1.4mm). You’ll also need a 0.6mm cylinder bur for setting the stone
Joint round edge files
Rather than cylinder burs, you could also use these specialist files for cutting the recesses for the prongs. However, they are expensive!
Diamond Sharpening Plate
Used for cleaning up and shaping rubber wheels. You can also use an old file or sandpaper. I buy these on Amazon.
Dedeco Sunburst Wheel
Used for cleaning minor excess solder situations. You’ll also want to grab a screw mandrel too to mount them on. The link is to a kit from Pepe – they have the best price I found (as of the date this page went live, at least).
EVEflex Knife edge rubber wheels
Used for cleaning up more major excess solder issues. I use the red (fine) wheel most often.
I popped a link below to a full set of these wheels though.
EVEFlex bullet rubber wheel
Used for cleaning up and polishing the inside of the setting – I use all grits from coarse to extra fine.
The link is to the fine wheel. However, you can purchase a whole set below.
Please note, you can buy a set of mixed sized and grit EVEFlex wheels which I highly recommend to start out with, RIGHT HERE
Stiff scalloped brush
Any firmer bristle brush will work just fine for this. A soft bristle brush will also get the job done too.
Extra soft scalloped brush
Again any soft bristle brush will work, or even a firm brush – this is just my preference.
Chungking Bristle Brush for Polishing Motor
If you have a polishing motor, these are excellent!
Platinum 1500 compound
An alternative to this would be Tripoli – basically it’s just a coarser polishing compound.
Setting bur
For setting claw shaped prongs. Ideally, you’ll want one the same size as your stone.
Heart Bur
You’ll need this to start cutting the seat for the stone when setting with rounded prongs. A 3.5-4mm bur is ideal.
Snap on disks
We use these in a fine grit to modify and soften the edges on a cheap pair of pliers.
Snap on Mandel
These mandrels are for use with the snap on sanding disks – the disks aren’t any use without a mandrel!
Flat pumice wheel
We use this wheel and the previous wheel in medium grit to finish up our prongs.
Knife edge pumice wheel
We use these in a fine grit to modify and soften the edges on a cheap pair of pliers.
Twin cut concave cone bur
My absolute favorite for creating rounded prongs. For my 16 gauge (1.3mm) prongs, I used a 1.8mm bur.