Prong Setting

For Brilliant Cuts

What youll need image

What you're going to need...

Please make sure to watch the classes in full and read the handouts before going out and purchasing any new tools listed here

We always like to show that there is more than one way to do everything and so have included ALL THE TOOLS we demonstrated in the class.

YOU DO NOT NEED EVERYTHING LISTED HERE.

So please, please, watch the videos first. Remember, it’s not the size of the tool collection, it’s what you do with them that counts.

jewellery tools and materials you'll need for lucy walker jewellery metalsmith academy's online classes.
18 gauge wire

16 gauge (1.3mm) round profile wire in brass, bronze or sterling silver – dead soft

I recommend at least several practice settings in a base metal before moving onto sterling silver.  

15cm should be more than enough for each 6-prong setting. However, it’s always a good idea to have extra on hand, just in case things don’t go quite to plan.

sterling silver sheet

18 gauge (1mm thick) sheet in brass, bronze or sterling silver – dead soft

I recommend at least several practice settings in a base metal before moving onto sterling silver.  

For setting a 10mm stone, I used a piece measuring approximately 6mm x 30mm – but watch the videos before buying for an explanation.

Hard solder

Hard and medium silver solder

I prefer to use wire solder that is rolled as thin as possible, but you can use whichever you prefer of course.  You can also potentially solder everything in this class with hard solder.  In case you were wondering, it’s red because I colour coded it with permanent marker.

Round brilliant cubic zirconia

10mm round brilliant cut gemstones

I highly recommend getting brilliant cut cubic zirconias to start practicing with as most other coloured stones will generally have more cut variations.  Believe me, you want to start with the easiest option here.  You can use other sizes too of course, but for a first try, I’d stick with something above 6mm in size.

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As an advanced class, I’m going to assume you have the basics. But I have included links below to some items used that you may not have at hand. Most things mentioned should be available from any major supplier, however I have only found the joint round edge files available at Otto Frei.

Do check out our Suppliers and Discounts page for discount codes for a variety of tool companies around the world before ordering.  And please remember as always, to watch the class before ordering anything.

Cylinder bur

Cross cut cylinder bur

I used a 1.32mm bur in the video (however for Busch – it’s sold as 1.4mm).  You’ll also need a 0.6mm cylinder bur for setting the stone

Joint edge files

Joint round edge files

Rather than cylinder burs, you could also use these specialist files for cutting the recesses for the prongs. However, they are expensive!

Diamond plate

Diamond Sharpening Plate 

Used for cleaning up and shaping rubber wheels. You can also use an old file or sandpaper. I buy these on Amazon.

Dedeco Sunburst blue

Dedeco Sunburst Wheel

Used for cleaning minor excess solder situations. You’ll also want to grab a screw mandrel too to mount them on. The link is to a kit from Pepe – they have the best price I found (as of the date this page went live, at least).

red knife edge rubber wheel

EVEflex Knife edge rubber wheels 

Used for cleaning up more major excess solder issues.  I use the red (fine) wheel most often.  

I popped a link below to a full set of these wheels though.

Bullet rubber wheels

EVEFlex bullet rubber wheel

Used for cleaning up and polishing the inside of the setting – I use all grits from coarse to extra fine.

The link is to the fine wheel. However, you can purchase a whole set below.

Please note, you can buy a set of mixed sized and grit EVEFlex wheels which I highly recommend to start out with, RIGHT HERE

medium bristle brush

Stiff scalloped brush

Any firmer bristle brush will work just fine for this. A soft bristle brush will also get the job done too.

Fine bristle brush

Extra soft scalloped brush

Again any soft bristle brush will work, or even a firm brush – this is just my preference.

Chungking bristle brush

Chungking Bristle Brush for Polishing Motor

If you have a polishing motor, these are excellent!

1500 polishing compound

Platinum 1500 compound

An alternative to this would be Tripoli – basically it’s just a coarser polishing compound. 

Setting Bur

Setting bur

For setting claw shaped prongs.  Ideally, you’ll want one the same size as your stone.

Heart Bur

Heart Bur

You’ll need this to start cutting the seat for the stone when setting with rounded prongs. A 3.5-4mm bur is ideal.

Snap on sanding disks

Snap on disks

We use these in a fine grit to modify and soften the edges on a cheap pair of pliers.

snap on mandrel

Snap on Mandel

These mandrels are for use with the snap on sanding disks – the disks aren’t any use without a mandrel!

Flat pumice wheel

Flat pumice wheel

We use this wheel and the previous wheel in medium grit to finish up our prongs.

Knife edge pumice wheel

Knife edge pumice wheel

We use these in a fine grit to modify and soften the edges on a cheap pair of pliers.

Busch twin cut bur

Twin cut concave cone bur

My absolute favorite for creating rounded prongs. For my 16 gauge (1.3mm) prongs, I used a 1.8mm bur.